Sunday, March 31, 2019

Assam - Kaziranga - Rhinos II


Elephant Grass is amazing !!

A "bunch grass", it's easily 12-15 feet (3-4 m) high in places, and there are many square miles of it in Kaziranga.  We rode around in open jeeps, just as we did at the lion preserve in Gujarat, trusting that the "locals" wouldn't jump in and "join us for dinner."
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

The grass is so high and so dense, that these two young male elephants weren't visible at all until they stepped out of the grass, onto the roadway...perhaps 75 m away from us...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
...then, having decided that we didn't look too trustworthy, they continued on across the road, again disappearing into the grass.  Seconds after they slipped into it, we drove to the place where they had stood, and could see no sign of them at all...they just vanished into the safety of the grass.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Safety for them...not for us.  The grass is full of elephants and rhinos, and also of these "tree roots", which turn out to be 6 ft (2 m) long monitor lizards !

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
The grass also hides a considerable population of tigers.  This one was quite distant, could't get a better image of him than this (had to use all my optical and digital zoom, plus some cropping to see it this well...).  It had apparently made a kill recently, and was lounging in the shade.  Several deer grazed calmly a few meters away, apparently aware that a full-bellied, lazy tiger is no danger...for the moment.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Ox Peckers, resting on a sunning rhino (only about 25 m away).

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
The area we visited on Day II not only had more rhino, but also had some more open areas where we could see them better, sometimes up quite close.  These were just grazing and were not bothered by our presence, but I have seen videos of upset rhinos charging through villages, doing serious damage.  

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


Most of the houses we saw in the area were up on stilts.  At first, I thought this was because there is lots of rain and flooding during the rainy season...but it's also so your family doesn't wake up in the morning with one of these guys licking their face !

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
This is one of several ranger stations.  The are spread across the park to support armed rangers watching for poachers.  Hindus are quite opposed to killing animals...
....but poachers better beware.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Some of the "locals" on watch.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Some of the rangers headed in after harvesting something out on the grasslands...

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
This Kingfisher had caught him a nice snack.  He was just holding it in his beak, until we made him nervous that we might steal it, so he gulped it down.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Tons of interesting birds...(our guide named them all, but no way I can remember)

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
The Brahmaputra River is huge, even when not at flood stage.  The river bed is easily visible from the air, it's a gravel channel between 4 and 6 miles wide (yes...miles...).  It's a principle river in eastern India for draining snow melt from the Himalayas, and also as watershed for the torrential monsoon rains that fall in Assam.  

The monsoon season starts in June, just about the time snow melting is getting to full speed.  The months of July-September would have a very different view from this vantage point.  The flooding, raging river would be wider than you could see, and I'm not sure, but even my vantage point on this bluff might not be a safe place to stand.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
This is one of my favorites (I printed one for my wall).


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
I also like this one.  A Kingfisher, not worried about floods, or rhinos, or tigers, just perched above a quiet lake, waiting for a small fish to wander into that "sweet spot" just in front of him.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
If you want to spend a summer as a volunteer game warden, I hear this office is "available" !

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Kaziranga National Park and Wildlife Preserve, a beautiful place.  
Fly first to Delhi, then on eastward to Guwahati. 
Drive eastward a bit more to the preserve.  

There are a number of small hotels that you can find online, 
they can arrange everything, rooms, meals, transport from Guwahati, 
and most important of all, jeeps and guides for the preserve.

Give it a visit.
-Mark




Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Assam - Kaziranga - Rhinos I


As I have related to some of you, travelling to India is a LONG (-ass) way to go.  Central India is on the back side of the planet from Houston, you can fly east or west to get there...doesn't matter, distance is same.

So, my typical trip is to leave on a Monday or Tuesday, stay the week, stay over the weekend, then come home the end of the second week.  On a shorter trip, you'd spend all your time flying.

We've visited three refineries in Assam, and very nearby is a wildlife refuge call Kaziranga National Park.  The refinery town's are small, so the best place to stay is near the refuge.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
As usual in India, there is a bit of driving time.  We flew first Delhi to Jorhat, then drove west to the first refinery.  After the visit, we drove on westward toward the park, arriving after dark.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Also, you need to coordinate visits to Assam to arrive after the rainy season is over...they get a LOT of rain in Assam.  As the sun came up on Saturday morning, the dew was heavy, but the sky was a beautiful blue.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
The lodge restaurant is on an open air deck, overlooking the Diphlu River.  A local rsident slips by on a raft built of a few bamboo poles.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
It's called the Diphlu River Lodge.  It's a tiny place, with only 12 bungalows.
Small, but with very nice, professional staff.  Made us feel quite welcome.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Similar to the lion preserve (Gir Forest) in western India, they take you in open jeeps to tour the preserve and look for wildlife.  You can see hundreds and hundreds of bid species...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
The biggest danger driving on the road is NOT hitting a deer.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
In lieu of jeeps, some people go by elephant.  If you think you are significantly safer on an elephant instead of being in the back of an open jeep, Google "Kaziranga Tiger Attack"...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
To keep guests from getting trampled by accident (presumably), guests walk up stairs and can feed some treats to the elephants before boarding.  As we watched, one young elephant climbed halfway up the steps before being dissuaded by the mahouts (...because that's where the treats are !)
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Lots, and lots of birds...some posing...

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
 Others "less interested" in posing...

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
 All sorts.  Some even posing with other park residents.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
 I mean ALL sorts, here are pelicans headed to one of the lakes.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
 And there, on the far side of the lake, was one of the prime targets of the visit.  The Asian Rhino.  This area has many, but the place we would see on Day 2 had many more, and much closer.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
We stopped to climb up a watch tower, always wary of what may wander (or pounce) from the forest of elephant grass.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Momma and her baby...

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
Other residents hanging out at the river.

More in the next post...
Y'all take care.
- Mark