Saturday, June 28, 2014

Delhi ... (India II)

 
 
My first stop in India was New Delhi, for meetings.  There is an "old" Delhi, and a "New Delhi".  The British built a new city, and made it the center of government, where the main government offices and buildings are located.  Finishing our meetings, we had an hour or so before we needed to head for the airport, so we took a drive around.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

The sun makes a pretty powerful first impression.  It was 41c (106 F), quite warm, but definitely not a record for Delhi.  Really, it wasn't any worse than "West-Texas-hot"...which of course, ain't all that great.
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

We drove around the New Delhi government buildings, and over to the Old City, to see "The Red Fort".  It was built by invading Mogul Emperors during the mid 1600's.  It has an octagonal shape, with two main entrances.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

It's huge.  The heat made it seem like a long way round to the Main Gate.  These moats were once channeled into the nearby river, so they were always full of water, and no doubt a few crocodiles.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 A corner turret...the whole structure is built using a local red sand stone.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

All along the top of the walls are arrow slits, and regular canon ports, in a Mogul Helmet motif, where this little guy has taken up residence.



Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

The Brits apparently gutted the main internal buildings some time ago, and erected several "new" buildings they could use as a main headquarters.



Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Now, even the "new" buildings are quite old.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

One thing that impresses me about India, is a seemingly universal entrepreneurial spirit.  All over the place, sometimes shoulder to shoulder along the street, are vendors, stands, small businesses, all with people trying...trying to move forward.  This guy, for example, can get you Visa Forms, "urgent photo copies", or a Coke.  Just step up and tell him what you need.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

This guy is another example.  His buddy is driving the motorcycle, and he is holding on to a large roll of something.  I saw him while riding with my friend Pankil in Vadodara.  I told Pankil that an image like this says to me, "Don't tell me it can't be done...find a way ! "  If people want to move forward, they can't let little things stand in their way.  They have to push forward, like this guy, and like the vendors above, to get the job done.  I saw that spirit everywhere I went in India.


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

The hotel in New Delhi was quite nice.  The lobby was a cool, quiet, calm oasis, in sharp contrast to the heat and bustle outside.
 
More to come...
 
Y'all take care,
 
- Mark W. Laughlin
 
 
 

 

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

The Real Ash-Ka ! ... (India I)

 

A couple of years ago, while I was writing The Trail of the Fox, Pankil, a customer of mine visited Houston to inspect some equipment.  We spent some time together, taking several meals together, and also touring around Houston, so he could get a good look.  His travel arrangements are complicated a bit, because he’s from India, and as a strict Vegetarian, it isn’t always easy to find good food to eat.  Fortunately my buddy Don, my partner at the office, is an Indian food lover, and had coached me on where and how to find the right kind.  Hanging out with Pankil during the week allowed us several occasions to talk, and to become good friends.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
During those discussions, he mentioned of course, his daughter, Aashka.  It just so happened, I was still sorting out the potential characters for “Trail”.  I thought “Aashka” sounded as if it could have been a name in the language of my characters, and so I said, if it was ok, I would borrow Aashka’s name.  He agreed, and in the book, I spelled it slightly differently, as “Ash-Ka”, to try and help my English speaking readers better get the pronunciation.

Well, this week, I made my first trip to India.  As it happens, our agent in India also lives in Pankil’s hometown.  As well,  there is a location there with some of our equipment that has been operating for a few years, so I was able to combine several elements, and make a visit to Vadodara as an important part of my trip.  Of course, to me, getting a chance to meet the “real” Aashka, was the most important element of all !

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Schedule wise, we were able to work out that most of my Sunday would be free, and so Pankil and I arranged to meet.  We looked around Pankil’s old neighborhood, near the center of Vadodara, then swung past his offices on the way to his current house.  Aashka has been having Pankil read her the “Ash-Ka” chapters of “Trail” regularly since they came out.  I don’t know who was more excited about the visit, her or I, but we were both definitely glad to have a chance to meet.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin
I met the whole family, Aashka’s uncle, aunt and cousin, her mom, her grandmother and her grandfather.  I felt most welcome in their home and was most warmly received.  We looked at photos I had been taking, and visited a bit, then Aashka, her dad and I went off to see the Palace in Vadodara, still home to the family of the former maharaja.  I had told Pankil that “making a personal connection” to a place made for a much more enjoyable visit.  Indeed, the places he showed me, his old neighborhood, the Central Library, the Central Market, are places I never would have had the opportunity to find and visit without a close friend from the city.  But to me, the opportunity to meet Aashka, and make that personal connection, was the best part of all !

-           Mark W. Laughlin
24-June-2014
 

Aashka: 
Please tell your family again that I most enjoyed meeting them,
(and you, of course !) and I look forward to seeing you all again. 
- Mark

 

PS:
There is another story on the blog, called “The Arrangement”,
which describes the way some arranged marriages in India are handled. 
Take a look at:


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin




 

Sunday, June 1, 2014

Seoul - May 2014


We had time for a morning walk while in Seoul.

Our hotel was quite near the U.S. and Japanese Embassies, and also near the Korean President's Residence.  There was a limo out front, waiting to be escorted somewhere, with the Police Motorcycles lined up and ready.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin



We headed off to a nearby hilltop palace.  It is surrounded by a "Great Wall of China style" wall, built ironically, to keep out the Chinese.  But, during an invasion several centuries ago, the Chinese were victorious, and took the castle and the then King.  (Google General George S. Patton, and read what he says about "fixed fortifications") 
(pretty cool place however, and popular with Korean hikers)



Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Some of the trees were showing foliage in what looked like fall colors,
even though it is still spring time.  Pretty.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


Now guys, I try to be as open minded as I can...but this was a tough one.  Sautéed Silk Worms.  It's not that they looked gross, actually, they didn't look all that bad.  The problem was...the "aroma"...actually a "smell", like poop set on fire, and pungent !  It hung with us as we walked on, drifting through the trees.  Our friend and partner did not even bother trying us on that one.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin



We had another chance to visit Namdaemun Market.  Third time for me, and each time, I manage to penetrate a bit deeper, see a little more.  It is a very busy visual environment, with photo ops everywhere.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Just about everything there you can think of that a Korean household would want to buy.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


A bedding guy...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


A doll and souvenir guy...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Glass ware...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


Quite a chaotic looking arrangement of buildings and alley ways,
easy to get turned around and find yourself walking the same street twice.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

I had earlier seen several people carrying large bunches of flowers,
but hadn't found the "center" of flower activity, until this time.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Tons of them...all varieties...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


 
It's hard to differentiate one's shop in such a crowded environment,
so this lady does it with yellow signs.  Color is everywhere.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


Along with some cool bikes... 
The area is so congested that motorcycles,
tiny "trucks" and hand carts are the usual form of transport
for folks restocking inventories.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


It was early, and the sellers were still arranging and getting set up. 
These alley ways would be quite crowded in a couple more hours.
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

We headed down a stairway that looked like it would allow us to cross under the street,
and may provide access to the subway...
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

We found "retail space, wherever it will fit...

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

But instead of a subway, there was additional retail space below.  Vast.  It ran a great distance to the left and right of where I was standing.  You never know what you will find...unless you go look.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Finally, we stopped in a small palace just a block or two from the hotel. 
I like to take photos of people doing silly things so their friends can take a photo. 


Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

These stones are "Ranking Stones".  Saw the same type in Beijing, in a place where the emperor holds court.  Here, as there, only the King walks along the central walkway, with guards on either side.  Then, visiting dignitaries would line up to the left and right, each finding a stone according to his social rank, and lining up beside it.  Note there is enough room between the stones for the visitors to like completely prostrate on the ground.  This little guy "photo bombed" me...and made the shot.

You wanna' see cool things ? 
Well, they don't come to you. 
You gotta' go look !

Y'all take care,
- Mark W. Laughlin



Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Culture...Update

 
Update 28-May-2014:
 
Ms. Maya Angelou passed away today.  I first became aware of her when I saw the interview described below. 
 
Just this passed week, while flying from Seoul to Tokyo, I sat next to a very nice lady, from Leon, Mexico.  We had a great conversation, about all sorts of things.  At one point, she mentioned that she liked to collect small sayings, poems, etc., write them down, and stick them onto her refrigerator, for her family to see.  As she said that, I said, "I know one you can put there."  I told her about the one below, and she wrote it on a scrap of paper.
 
Cool experiences are all around.  You just have to decide to take part.
Take care,
-Mark



 
From 15-May-2011:
I saw an interview the other day on TV.  It was Maya Angelou, a famous African-American poet.  I have since bought her first book, her autobiography (1).  It’s the story of her childhood and early adulthood, living as a Black girl in a still segregated South (2).  During her interview, she quoted a famous Latin comedy writer, named Terentius, who lived from about 190 to about 160 B.C.  She first quoted him in Latin: “Homo sum: humani nil a me alienum puto”, and then translated it to English: “I am a human being: nothing human can be alien to me.”  She said she found that quote to be most inspiring, and that she, now nearly 80, is still learning to think that way.
I found it inspiring as well, and I felt that it put into words something very important.  We all look at the world through the lens of our own culture.  We judge what we see as “different” or maybe “inferior” to what we do, to what we are.  Another translation of the word “alien” in Terentius’ quote could be “foreign”.  We see things as “foreign” to us, unknown, not understood, or worse, misunderstood, and we sometimes pull back, recoil from these different, “alien” things.
But I have always been interested in other cultures.  Learning about other parts of the world, or about the world at other times in history, exposes us to many new and different concepts, practices, cultures.  If the message from Terentius (3), and Ms. Angelou, is that we should embrace these differences, embrace variety, embrace culture, then I fully agree.
I think we can extend this concept into broader terms, perhaps “nothing about this earth can be alien to me”, or maybe “should be alien to me.”  The natural environment is important.  We can’t decide that certain portions of it are not important, not worth saving, just because we are unfamiliar with them.  The natural world matters.  Animal species matter.  The air, the soil, the water all matter to us as people, as a species ourselves.  We all owe it to all of us to know all we can about the earth, and about all of the people who live on it.
One of the best things about my job is that I get to travel to several parts of the world.  As well, I get to work on highly international projects, and so I meet people from around the world, even if I have not yet had an opportunity to travel to their home countries.  With respect to writing, it gives me many possibilities.  As I encounter things that interest me, and that I think will interest others (and if I can gain enough insight into them), the opportunities to write are limitless.
I’m happy to report that since the start of WrittenPost, the site has had visits from several countries.  About half are from the USA.  After that comes Japan, Finland, India and Spain.  In addition, there are a few from Canada, Peru, Germany, Iran, Ukraine, Singapore and Estonia.  I have friends in most of those places, but others have just searched and then followed links to the site.  (when those of you who get my e-mail announcements of posts pass the WrittenPost address on to others, I very much appreciate it ! )
(Update:  By May-2013, the site has been visited more than 3,000 times, from at least 45 different countries)
(Update:  By May 2014, we have had over 7,000 visits from 56 different countries)
(Update:  By June 2015, it's 10,000 visits and 77 countries !)
It does make writing a bit more difficult however, because writing a story that people from many different cultures can understand may mean having to explain things that my “home country readers” are already quite familiar with.  So, occasionally, I may seem to belabor and explain “common” concepts in detail, to the extent that a “home country reader” may feel bogs down the narrative, but which is necessary if others are to understand.  Maybe I will try something like the system below…foot notes to explain things to those who may be unfamiliar with local concepts.
For now, I will continue to look for interesting ideas, to learn about, to write about.  Soon I will post a story about a visit I made last year to Hiroshima.  After that, toward summer time, I will begin to publish a much longer post, a Short Story, a work of fiction that I wrote back in December and January…The Trail of the Fox.  As I think about that work, and the wide variety of readers who may look at it, I’m a bit intimidated.  It is written about an early, pre-Indian culture here in North America.  I have written it intentionally vague in some places, relying on the knowledge of the reader to understand what I’m talking about.  I hope I don’t leave some readers behind.  Let’s see.

A few notes to readers from other parts of the world:
1.     Angelou, Maya.  I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings, Ballentine Books, New York, 1969.

2.     Slavery ended in the USA in 1865, at the close of an extremely costly war.  From that time, former slaves were free, but basically, most started with absolutely nothing, no money, no education, and only the work skills taught to them by their former masters. For years, Blacks had to try to catch up themselves.  They did not go home to Africa, because Africa wasn’t “home”.  Most of them were born in America, some had been many generations here.  In the South (which had been the area that had fought to keep them as slaves), but also in the North, Blacks were not allowed to live, work, eat or take recreation alongside Whites.  This was segregation, the “separation of the races.”  Official segregation only started to disappear rapidly in the mid-1960’s, by then, Ms. Angelou was already in her mid-30’s.

3.     I can’t help mentioning a favorite movie: “The History of the World, Part I”, directed and starring American comedian Mel Brooks.  One of the roles he played in the movie was “Comicus”, a Roman stand-up comedian.   Sorry, it was funny, the name Terentius reminded me of it.

-       Mark W. Laughlin
            15-May-2011
 
 

Sunday, May 25, 2014

Yellow Ribbons

   

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


 
















On 16 April 2014, the MV Sewol, a Korean passenger ferry, set out from Inchon, headed to South Korea's Jeju Island, a popular recreational destination for South Korean and other Asian countries.  Most of the passengers on board were high school students from Ansan, a city near Inchon, headed off on school trips to Jeju.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

Something caused the ship to tilt sharply, perhaps a sharp turn by the inexperienced 3rd Mate who was steering.  Then, because the ferry company had been regularly overloading the ship, because they had modified the ship to carry more passengers and cargo, possibly without proper design or governmental inspections, and because the heavy vehicles on board were inadequately secured, the cargo shifted suddenly, the ship listed sharply, and began taking on water.
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

There are allegations of criminal neglect by the ferry company and crew, causing the incident, and also of a criminally negligent response to the emergency by the crew, which delayed efforts to get help, delayed efforts to get passengers off the sinking ship, and resulted in the deaths of more than 300 of the students.  Several from the crew abandoned ship ahead of passengers, and are now being held, charged with crimes as serious as murder.

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

In addition, the people of Korea are angry at the poor response of the Korean Coast Guard.  Charges of failure to adequately inspect vessels, failures to have ship's crews adequately trained for emergencies, and failures to quickly respond to the emergently are flying amid an angry, emotional reaction by the Korean public.  
 

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

The Korean Prime Minister has resigned, and this past week, a tearful Korean President Park proposed to completely dismantle the Korean Coast Guard as an entity, and reassign its functions to other agencies of government. 
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 
As I walked around Seoul last week, I saw many small memorials, scattered around the city,
many consisting of Yellow Ribbons, with names, wishes and prayers written on them.
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 
  The biggest I saw, was in front of Seoul's City Hall where a sea of small,
yellow paper boats set sail on the large lawn,
with ribbons fluttering in the breeze, all around the area.
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 
 
 
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

One of the toughest things to take here, were imprints,
in yellow paint, of the shoe of some of the victims.
Very emotional.
 
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 
 
There were 20 or 25 boards where people had posted sketches,
photos, and other memorials.   
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 
Zooming in on this one, you see a sketch of an anguished mother,
a photo of a sunset, where the outline of a candle has been drawn around the setting sun...
 

Photo by Mark W. Laughlin

 
...but In the cartoon, you don't have to speak Korean to know the meaning,
when you see an image of a crew escaping before the young passengers.
 
 
 Another memorial, just next to my hotel.
 
 
Photo by Mark W. Laughlin


Folks all around the world are shocked by the tragedy. 
Expressions of sorrow have come in
from many people, leaders, countries. 
 
Koreans have responded to the tragedy
with a mixture of anger,
embarrassment, sorrow and loss.
 
Our thoughts are with them
as so many families
try to find a way forward.


                                                                      - Mark W. Laughlin
                                                                              25-May-2014